The Jahaz Mahal

There is THE Jahaz Mahal in Mandu, in the State of Madhya Pradesh, a place I have never been able to visit yet. That one is famous as the setting where the famous love affair of Baz Bahadur and Rani Rupmati was played out, and it is said that the best time to visit Mandu is during the rains but that's another story. 

There is another Jahaz Mahal in Delhi, in Mehrauli village behind the Qutb Minar, and as its name suggests, it was meant to be seen like a ship on water, being a palace surrounded by a lake.

The structure is now, right in the middle of human habitat. The outlying buildings have all but vanished. Major portions of the lake which was called Hauz i Shamsi or the Shamsi Talao, have been reclaimed ..

The U courtyard, originally rectangular

 Notice the variations in the pavilions on top. Built before the Mughals, the pavilions were lined with blue tiles. The building was definitely some kind of a resort or resting place for the later Mughals and could have been a Serai or inn for Central Asian visitors before that, in the 15th century

Jahaz Mahal

Boys playing cricket in the grounds that were definitely part of the Shamsi Talao, and the ruins of outlying buildings. The annual fair, Phool walon ki Sair is held in these grounds in the month of October every year when a procession offers flowers at the Yogmaya temple and then presents chaddar at the dargah of the saint Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. The festival also hosts cultural programmes so the efforts in conservation could perhaps, have been on a much higher scale

 

The water level really seemed down at the pavilion on the other side of  the  Shamsi Talao. These three gentlemen actually pleaded with me for something to be done about the general state of affairs, for the Jahaz Mahal has weathered the elements for seven centuries, they said ..

I was anxious to visit the dargah for light was fading fast, and it was already half past four when we came upon the Jahaz Mahal on foot, and invitations for tea and pakora had to be politely declined. When we found the dargah, it was quite dark but it was interesting to see another building, Zafar Mahal alongside, stated to have been the residence of Bahadur Shah Zafar, the last of the Mughals. Another time then, another day!

Little birds

Found this beautiful bird foraging in the grounds behind our office one Sunday afternoon. Could it be a wren or prinia?

Greenish on the back and a bit of a rust on the head. I think it could be a tailor bird. Not very sure, though

The Indian Robin has been a frequent visitor and is definitely blessed with an inquiring personality 

The ashy wren - warbler. Flick, flick goes the tail. Fickle minded sure, but it has got one of the sweetest songs when it really wants to be heard :))

There are other birds too that I have noticed but could not catch on camera yet. It is really astonishing, this wide variety of small birds right in the middle of Faridabad and one can only hope that they continue to thrive and remind us of the infinite, beautiful and bountiful Nature we are all part of

Unmistakably

 

From another time, the curve of your smile the faintest hint of fragrance rustle of your silk and your unabashed gaze the sound of your voice like the hidden brook gurgling out of the rocks and I cannot quite manage to wake up to that Kohinoor dream and now like tinkling glass or a needle that jabs at my soul and even more surprising is the fact that you paint me blue wondering if you remember the tiny blades of grass peeping out of the window sill after the rains knew when the storm broke on the sand by the rolling phosphorescent seas at night or is it just me  

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Now it is empty where I stand
and look down the avenues.
Almost as far as the farthest ocean
I can see the heavy
forbidding sky.

(Rilke) 

My precious moment

In that moment
that fleeting moment

In that fluid space
between night and dawn

The sky and the earth

my precious moment
and yours


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Purple Sunbird in late October eclipse plumage

You can see the purple sunbird in the header picture, which was taken in April. Another picture in the post Spring, summer and the parched earth.

At that time, I was confounded by the absolute friskiness of this beautiful bird, and its colouring made it very difficult to detect. The moment I tried to raise my camera, it would fly away.

And now, it seems that the bird has changed its plumage, and I have also found spots from where it is comparatively easier to photograph this marvellous creature. So here goes -

Delicate beauty on wings

Strips of blue teal remain, in a bed of yellow! Down the throat, and something makes me think that the bird is actually quite proud of its variegated coat. This is actually the eclipse plumage of the male

Purple Sunbird, Faridabad October 2014

Notice the slightly curved bill, for dipping into honey!

Autumn in Delhi

One can hear the footsteps of the approaching harsh winter of Delhi now. The air is dry, and there are the usual remonstrations with deteriorating air quality and the pleas of going easy with firecrackers in Deepawali, the festival of lights, have apparently fallen on deaf ears. Firecrackers actually terrorise the dogs and cats and I am sure the avians have an equal distaste for the sudden bursts of sound that tear the night apart. Cases of COPD and respiratory problems seem to be peaking once again and the older generation is finding the going tough as usual, with rusted hinges and slowing metabolism that don't quite keep up.

It is interesting to see the little, subtle changes in the foliage and in the plumage of the birds who are resident in the area. In general, the bright colors have muted.However, this particular bird seems to be all dressed up in the colors of the fall -

Rufous treepie in Faridabad

Definitely a male, proud in coat and tails! I have seen this bird often enough but could not get a clear view until now. The tail is quite distinctive as you can see in the picture. My avid birdwatcher friend has immediately recognized this to be the Rufous treepie, and apart from its distinctive appearance, it has got an equally distinctive call. Quite loud if I might add, especially in the early morning hours.

I got some more pictures of this picturesque bird, in and around our place, so here goes -

Rufous Treepie in Faridabad, December 2014

Looks like this bird has an even more decorated tail, rather like those one would expect on the head dress of a Red Indian brave!

Somehow, the time of the year is inextricably linked with memories of events, things and people, especially people. Memories turning golden brown ..

Adagio in G  Minor, by Albinoni. Remembering such amazing and graceful people tonight. 

The Lodhi Gardens

With temperatures flaring up again and no rains, no respite in sight, it would be a good idea to visit the Lodhi gardens for it is after all, one of the favorite places to chill; by the Delhi crowd. Also a favorite place for morning walk or a jog or two by the stratospheric people who reside in nearby kothis (bungalows) and of course, some well maintained medieval monuments from the 15th century that dot the park.

Originally laid out by the Lady Willingdon, wife of the 22nd Viceroy and Governor General of India, the park was landscaped by the American architect Joseph A Stein and later, by a Japanese team. 

The tomb of Muhammad Shah is the earliest of the monuments here, mid 15th century. It is also quite well preserved. Notice the octagonal shape and the pavilions on top. The domes and pavilions were originally covered in colored tiles, mostly blue. 

Tomb of Muhammad Shah

  A short walk through the 90 acre gardens until we come to the next monument ...

The Bara Gumbad or the big dome, is next. Constructed in the late 15th century, the domed free standing tomb has a mosque on one side and a mehman khana or guest house, on the other side. All the three buildings came up separately but are on a common platform.

Bara Gumbad

The mosque has extensive carvings in what  appeared to be arabic lettering, but elements of Hindu architecture are clearly visible in the Bara Gumbad itself

In front of the Bara gumbad is the Sheesh gumbad, another tomb with unknown inhabitants. A few blue tiles still remain, and sheesh meaning glass, one can't stop wondering about the personages interred inside, more than 500 years ago ..

'

Sheesh Gumbad

The last major monument is the tomb of Sikandar Lodhi, early 16th century and situated within battlements. The tomb is actually quite small in size, another octagonal structure and similar to the tomb of Muhammad Shah Sayyid but without the chhajjas or pavilions. The pavilions occur atop the battlements. 

Tomb of Sikandar Lodhi

The place was quite deserted at the time of my visit, quiet and serene. One could sit down, soak in the atmosphere. Couldn't shake off the feeling of being watched, somehow; that's what some of these tombs do to you! 

There is a water body on one side of the tomb of Sikandar Lodhi, and an arched bridge called the Athpulla. Centuries ago, the water body was connected to the river Yamuna. A few ducks are resident here, and I could also see one cormorant dunking into the water for tidbits

The Athpulla arched bridge

Went back to rest my tired limbs, lying down on the grass under a neem tree, thinking of the rains in Mumbai, wishing for the rains, wishing it would rain down, down on me ....