Friday, May 24, 2013

The Qutb Minar, a marvel and a dream

Coming back to Delhi after 16 years and the first thing I do is to rush to visit the Qutb!
Somehow, this complex where a large number of  remains from the 12th century abound, has held my attention as it has, I am sure, of countless others. In a way, it is the mascot of the national capital Delhi, the land of seven cities like the Shahjehanabad, Siri, Dinpanah, Tughlaqabad etc all of whom have disappeared behind the mists of time but the Qutb complex remains, reminding us of our unique heritage among all nations..
 

It was quite heartening to see that the Archaeological Survey of India has been improving upon the maintenance and restoration efforts, so much so that I did several rounds even as the mercury was touching 44 degrees C. Originally, the minar accompanied a mosque, the pillars of which were pilfered from 27 Hindu and Jain temples and the compound of the mosque was enlarged by Sultan Iltutmish and Alauddin Khilji successively. These enlargements are now clearly visible from an appropriate vantage point



That cute little dome was actually the first dome structure in India, called the Alai Darwaza.


Restoration efforts are painstaking and slow, and is still going on after several decades. Loved the sheer presence of the structure, the symmetry and the vision. I am sure you would too, once you visit!


This was most probably the original entry to the Qutb, hoary cenuries ago. Nowadays, this particular vista lies at the back, but the powerful presence of the sublime makes itself felt, nonetheless. I was a bit disappointed that the way to the tomb of Kamali - Jamali has been closed by a boundary wall, 180 degrees from here. But then, the place where I sat contented and looked at he Qutb minar was so secluded and peaceful with only the birds to keep me company ..


Couldn't help going round once again! That is a view from the galleries of the mosque.

It would not be fair to leave out the other beauties in the Qutb complex, even though my intention was to depict the minar by itself, resplendant in its own glory. So this is the Mughal Masjid, in front of a small patch of garden laid out in neat quadrants


A chhajjah, or a crowned pavilion which often served as a look out post


It is recorded that the infamous Alauddin Khilji wanted to build a minar twice as large as the Qutb minar. Was it just competition for the sake of competition? Was it a hunger for lasting fame? In that, he did sure fail miserably, for this is what remains of his effort, a 26 metre high unfinished edifice


In one corner, lies the tomb of Sultan Iltutmish, who ruled after Qutbuddin Aibaq. By all means, a gentle soul and a regal personage who never forgot his humble origins, and the father of Sultana Razia, who dared to defy the veil and hold a public audience nine centuries ago

 

Major R Smith of the Royal Engineers repaired the cupola of  the minar in 1802, when it was struck down by lightning, but he did it like a chhatri which was later removed by Governor General Lord Hardinge. And so it lies on the lawns outside the minar



There is also a sundial in front of the cupola, called Sandersons' sundial, erected in memory of one of the Superintendants of Archaeology, who carried out extensive excavations in and around the area.

 The mosque is spread over a large area and offers wonderful views from different angles


The Hindu style of architecture is clearly visible in these colonnaded galleries of the mosque


Only the arches remain of the screens at the western end of the mosque. The difference in periods of construction is visible to the trained eye.


A close up of the frieze on one of the screens. Of muslim motif, but clearly done by the hindu craftsman


Its strange that the central courtyard houses the Iron Pillar, erected by the Emperor Chandragupta II circa 500 AD. There are inscriptions on the iron pillar which have been deciphered and translated and put up on tablets. Fifteen centuries, and not a speck of rust!


Noticed a falcon sitting atop a tree and surveying the land

And a squirrel, hunting for bits and pieces left on the grass!


Into the earth, where we belong, we must go.

And the earth shall sustain us and nourish us and our offspring who must honour and love all her children, the animate and the inanimate, all of the same breath!

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Olden Tales of Lucknow

Surajbhan, Gyan Prakash and Surinder Singh, retired officers of the Indian Army.


Met these worthy gentlemen quite by chance, following a pair of frisky squirrels in the gardens of the Residency at Lucknow and as it turned out, they had been following my movements too!

Arthritic limbs notwithstanding, they keep up to the routine of a walk around the gardens every day and a chat and a mutual outpouring of their woes, chiefly the regular spats with their good for nothing offspring and their wives. But what a lot of stories they had to tell! 

 All were emphatic in their respective versions of the resident spirits in the gardens, each with their own drama and pathos, including the sounds of beating horsehooves at night ...

The Residency was seized upon by the sepoys in 1857 and there followed a murderous response. All existing buildings have been carefully maintained as it was after the assault, with cannonball holes gaping. As I understand, the British govt still gives a grant for the maintenance of the graves and grounds and there's such a vibrantly strong aura about it even after 150 odd years! 

The Doctor's residence

 
Used to be the ballroom


Stables, Residency
 
Finally, the little squirrel that came up almost to my feet, sniffing for goodies


And as for the Nawabi tales of Lucknow, lets wait for a more opportune time another day ..

Monday, May 13, 2013

A child's night sky!




This picture is actually drawn in the computer by Krishnakali, when she was 10, about three years back. 

She has never been to the beach below Dabolim hill, where the airport is situated in Goa, but this looks remarkably like it!  And this brings on memories of the grilled mackerel and rice with fish curry, served piping hot in the beach shack by Aunt Jonesca ..

Why is the moon coloured yellow? Or is it an elderly sun?

Is the stardust raining down?

Like most major questions in life, they have no answers!