Sunday, August 14, 2011


A city in Central India, sometime seat of the Holkar clan, wonderfully ambient temperature and people so easy going in contrast to the abrasive tempers of Delhi and single minded pursuit of Mammon in Mumbai! Only city to have an IIT and an IIM both, besides other institutions. Took pictures of the Krishnapura chhatris or pagodas, built over the cremation grounds of some of the rulers of the Holkar clan. 

 Architecturally, the mix of styles would be clear to those who have been watching  temple architecture of medieval India

The Rajwada, or the royal house was a few meters away. The first three floors were built in stone and the top four floors in wood. Only the facade remains, for the edifice burned down three times, the latest in 1984 ..
From a side entrance, I came up to a pillared hall, with numerous pieces of stone and metal sculpture 
Much taller than me and clearly centuries old, this Nataraj sculpture is the largest I have seen so far
Canopied Shiva shrine inside the hall, with a massive metallic cobra protecting the deity .. the shrine of queen Ahilyabai Holkar is adjacent to it
Philosopher queen who ruled from 1767 to 1795, led her armies in battle, rebuilt the Kashi Vishwanath temple in Varanasi, the Somnath temple and built temples as far away as Badrinath and Puri, scores of rest houses  and  other public works, regularly gave audience and a firm believer in justice and fair play. Revered in the entire region and State as a saint. She came to Indore only twice however, and shifted her seat from Indore to Maheshwar, a small town on the Narmada river. 
Both the sculptures above represent Shiva as the hunter as I could understand. The Malwa region is full of Shiva temples, the Omkareshwar and Mahakaleshwar not far away, and those stories would also be told! 
Also met Ruparam somewhere along the way. A sheep grazer and nomad, he is from Jodhpur in Rajasthan and lately in Indore. 
  Embroidered cotton dhoti and kurta, traditional Jodhpuri stuff!

And finally, this rose ringed parakeet, enjoying his diet of guavas - from head to tip of his tail, he must have been a full 18 inches!


  1. Oh I so enjoyed this journey through ancient history this morning! The photos are magnificent. The first few, of the long hallways, almost shimmer like a mirage. Wonderful architecture and history, everywhere, for you to explore, and share with us. Wonderful!I love the photo of the nomad, especially.

  2. I visited Indore in 2006 on my way to Mandu. I told by the locals about this Rajwada House but I preferred to leave beacuse I was so much tempted to visit Mandu. Next Time.

    You have taken good pictures.

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