Sunday, June 23, 2013

The tomb of Kamali Jamali and other places, an amazing discovery!

Jamali was a Sufi saint during the Lodhis and upto the days of Humayun (late 15th century to early 16th century) and was also a member of the royal court. Of Kamali, nothing is known. The tomb is in a very small rectangular space, and the ceiling and the walls are entirely covered in painted patterns in blue, white and rose, stucco inlaid with coloured tiles. There is a mosque adjoining the tomb
 
 
 
It is amazing that the wonderful artwork that used to be in almost all tombs of royalty and other worthies has survived only in the tomb of a sufi saint! In order to keep the treasure secure, the tomb is always kept under lock and key, including the enclosure.
 
 
 
The ceiling is so richly painted that it looks like a Persian carpet and I am sure this is a treasure indeed. I have actually, rarely come across such a treasure in my wanderings, never knew of its existence and was so happy to be almost breathless with delight!
 
 
Although this is near the Qutb Minar, which is a world heritage site, there are almost no visitors or tourists. But the ASI has cleared up the overgrowth and carried out some excavations also in the area, which has revealed several other notable remains.
This is what remains of the tomb of Sultan Ghiyas uddin Balban, open to the elements. As was his reign, full of strife, warfare and uncertainties ..
 
 
This an enclosed tomb, of whom, no one knows, near a waterfall and enclosing an octagonal tomb
 
 
 
The tomb of Mohammad Quli Khan was converted into Dilkhusa, a resort by Thomas Metcalfe for use during the rainy season, He was the company's agent during the final days of the Mughal dynasty  who used to live in Metcalfe House at the outskirts of Delhi where he collected a large number of memorabilia. Metcalfe House was sacked by the Sepoys during the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857. He laid out platforms, water courses and pavilions and a boathouse outside the Dilkusa, so it appears that the surroundings were actually a lake, fed by natural springs most of which have been choked by surrounding construction
 
 
View of the remains of the paintings inside the tomb of Quli Khan
 
 
.. and the boathouse!


 This area was quite clearly an important place during the Sultanate period, before the Mughals and the excavations clearly show internal paths, houses and courtyards. There was also plenty of water naturally available to sustain the civilization. 
 
Before we close, a view of the Mandi mosque nearby and its gateway ..
 
 
 
Glory is fleeting, obscurity is forever! (Napoleon)

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

The tomb of Rahim


His father Bairam Khan, regent of the boy king Akbar who grew up to be one of the greatest emperors of the Indian subcontinent, was murdered when he was only four years old. Taken under the wings of the emperor, Khanzada Abdul Rahim Khan - i - khana flourished as a scholar well versed in several languages and also as a military commander when he was given the governorship of several states. But he is remembered today by his dohas, or couplets in Hindi, of earthy common sense and a touch of humility. A contemporary of the Hindu saint Tulsidas, Rahim was also known for his devotion to Krshna, a worthy proponent of the syncretism of the golden age during the rule of Emperor Akbar. Sadly, his sons were killed by emperor Jehangir as he was opposed to his accession to the throne. He built the tomb on the death of his wife, and after his death, was also interred there. 
 
  
It was terribly hot and sultry in the Sunday afternoon in June and the place was totally empty. The central dome and canopies looked bare and stripped off as indeed they were, by the courtiers of  the later Mughals. The tomb is on a square base and a raised platform containing chambers that are all sealed off now. The southern side has a staircase leading up to the tomb chamber but the stairways up or down are again, sealed off. The recessed arch and the design closely follows Humayun's tomb
 
 
 
Tired and sweating, when I entered the central domed chamber which had arched entrances on all four sides, I was immediately into a different realm, with a rush of cool air which seemed to swirl around the cemented tomb. It was so calm and comforting that I couldn't but lie down on the cool block of cement and promptly fell asleep!
 
 
View straight up to the inside of the central dome, with faint remains of the original painted ceiling.
 
I have found different places with different vibes and the tomb of Rahim was one totally at peace with itself, reaching out and touching your soul with the magic wand of contentment
 
 
The mynah looked as thirsty as myself! But there was water nearby and the rains are not far away ..
 
Says Rahim,
a dilemma indeed
speaking the truth and
breaking worldly ties, but
lies are not beholden
to the Lord

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Thy need my friend, is greater than mine!

This is one of the stickers they have put up in the Delhi Metro and instantly attracted my attention.
 
 
Pushing my way in front through the crowd, I managed a hurried shot from my mobile phone. And surprise! Watching me taking the picture, a strapping young fellow got up and offered his seat to a woman of rather generous proportions. Was Delhi really getting to be more considerate, humane?
 
Thoughts flew back to the tale of Sir Phillip Sidney, read in childhood. Dying in battle, he is said to have given his flask of water to another wounded soldier, saying, " Thy necessity is yet greater than mine"! That made him more famous after his death and created a role model of bravery and generosity, of the Elizabethan age ..
 
Cut to the present age of unabashed ambition, greed and cut - throat competition. People rushing madly to the escalator after being disgorged from commuter trains on their way to work reminds one of the Charlie Chaplin movie "Modern Times", 1936. Harried people, rushed people, ruthlessly on the grind. And somewhere along this headlong rush to nowhere, we seem to have pushed the qualities of kindness and consideration far back into the recesses of our mind. Hugging our own comfort zones, busy browsing our own virtual world in those hideously big smartphones. Our own private and personal race to acquire, accumulate and maximise gratification.
 
And yet, a simple act like offering your seat to the old and the infirm will surely light up your day, infuse a spring in your step! Just give it a try!